tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32757932662110856672024-03-13T15:54:53.906+00:00st.pierre ON WINE, etc.pursuing, enjoying, above all celebratingBrian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.comBlogger91125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-44675342027614762842016-06-08T12:41:00.002+01:002016-06-08T12:46:25.222+01:00You can always tell a PR person. . .<span style="font-size: large;">. . . but you can't tell him or her very much. (Sorry, old joke, but still true.) Some bright spark has declared this "National Picnic Week," which sort of fits neatly with the overlap of "International Champagne Week," (which has generously been broadened to include just-plain sparkling wine), ignoring the fact that the former is always an uncertain excercise in England, and the latter should be celebrated all year. Now, a New Zealand winemaker has declared that <span style="color: #660000;"><b>Donald Trump</b></span> is not welcome to visit his winery. As Trump is a teetotaller who hasn't announced any plans to travel to New Zealand, this seems more than a bit gratuitous, to say the least, which is something I'm happy to do.</span>Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-15224172396123444362016-06-02T12:19:00.001+01:002016-07-23T09:26:25.992+01:00On the road again<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rQjeVNAWD_Q/V1gFKXq92EI/AAAAAAAAAH8/SvRQCLTDF8sx_Tu4tYQWVpmaux6cItodgCLcB/s1600/Bacchus%2B2014%2BBottle%2BShot-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rQjeVNAWD_Q/V1gFKXq92EI/AAAAAAAAAH8/SvRQCLTDF8sx_Tu4tYQWVpmaux6cItodgCLcB/s320/Bacchus%2B2014%2BBottle%2BShot-1.jpg" width="261" /></a></div>
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--><span style="font-size: large;">Years ago, when I lived in San Francisco, one of the great
weekend pleasures was to drive across the Golden Gate Bridge and spend a day in Sonoma, wending my way round what was known as the <b>Sonoma Farm Trails.</b>
Napa may have had the glamour, but Sonoma, rustic and rumpled, had the
variety: Aside from good wine in informal tasting rooms, I could easily find
first-rate cheese, poultry like quail, guinea hens, and ducks, herbs, fruit of
all sorts, just-dug vegetables, and plenty of jams, jellies, and sauces (and
recipes!) from enterprising cooks. Besides the bounty, it was a good
reminder that wine is an agricultural product, with good farming at
its heart.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> I had a
pleasant flashback to those days last week in West Sussex, at
the farm shop on the Cowdray Estate, one of the best in southern England. I
stocked up on duck, chicken, pork, cheese, asparagus, and new potatoes—all
organic—and, discovered, in a small building next door, the <b><span style="color: #660000;">English Wine Company.</span></b> There were wines available to
taste, and we liked the <b><span style="color: #660000;">Albourne Estate</span></b> Bacchus so much we bought some (Bacchus is a grape that’s known as a “cross,”
interbred from three German grapes, including Riesling—it’s hardy, can
thrive in difficult conditions, and in good years makes a fresh and lively
white wine, with a heady elderflower aroma; it’s perfect with light fish like
plaice). I also picked up a brochure, detailing the <b>South East Wine Route, </b>showing a map and
information on 17 wines with public tasting rooms, as well as another 17 open
by appointment. Many have farm shops, and as we discovered on the way back
home, when we stopped at Secrett’s farm shop near Milford, many farm shops now sell English
wine—deliciously complete. Have a look at <a href="http://www.seva.uk.com/">www.seva.uk.com</a>.
</span></div>
Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-87453960726473568582016-05-24T09:39:00.002+01:002016-06-08T12:47:55.110+01:00Paris when it sizzles<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CSBFbadqWB0/V0QSckQB1eI/AAAAAAAAAHc/kwn3VK3sZjIX1lPVGb7aiX5lcWuPiljvgCLcB/s1600/SpurrierWarrenMe%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CSBFbadqWB0/V0QSckQB1eI/AAAAAAAAAHc/kwn3VK3sZjIX1lPVGb7aiX5lcWuPiljvgCLcB/s320/SpurrierWarrenMe%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As Bogart said to Bergman
in "Casablanca," "We'll always
have Paris."
As <b><span style="color: #660000;">Steven Spurrier</span></b> said to me 40 years ago, "I
don't have a thermofax machine, but there's a chap nearby who does--I'll send
you some interesting stuff." Steven set off a big bang with what became
known ever after as <b><span style="color: #660000;">The Paris Tasting,</span></b> and I was happy to amplify it, and the
wine world has also always had Paris ever since. When <b><span style="color: #660000;">Warren Winiarski</span></b>
came over for a visit a while back, we had a bit of a reunion. Typical--Steven and I with glasses in hand, Warren
with large pebbles--he rocks! (Although, to be fair, we were in a vineyard at
the time, so he could say it was research.)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> Less talked
about is the fact that, every time the tasting has been re-staged by Steven and various cohorts, usually on decade-marker
anniversaries for the reds involved, California Cabernets always came out on
top. (When we did it at the 30-year mark here in London
at Berry Bros & Rudd, California
took all five first places, led by <b><span style="color: #660000;">Ridge "Montebello"</span></b>.) As Steven
said, “the California
wines were made to express, rather than to impress.”</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> Now, the
tables may have turned again: At a recent tasting of the 2000 vintage, Bordeaux beat the
daylights out of the Californians. Someone was paying attention, obviously.</span></div>
Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-76883662794085071742016-05-16T11:38:00.000+01:002016-06-08T12:47:30.393+01:00Serious fun in Portugal<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: large;">A few countries around the Mediterranean have a delicious
identity crisis—in a varietally organized world, dominated by the likes of
Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and flashy new arrivals such as Pinot Grigio,
what do you do when your wines are made from quite unfamiliar grapes, singly
or blended with other strange-sounding ones? Greeks and
Croatians generally put the grape names on their labels and hope for the best;
in the western Balkans, they seem content with local markets, exporting a bit
to close neighbors who might be anti-Russian (Communism nearly ruined
winemaking behind the Iron Curtain). </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> In the Douro
Vally in Portugal,
the problem has been different, less a matter of shifting gears than of
building a new car. For many centuries, the steep, terraced hillsides above the
namesake river have been planted to a hodgepodge of mostly red grapes that went
into Port; now, the world is inclined more to lighter table wines. Those old
vines yield superb fruit, and can make splendid table wine as well. Reform,
rejuvenation, or renovation? How do you tell the story?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> For five of
the region’s best small independent winemakers, the answer was to form a loose
sort of bromance: <b><span style="color: #660000;">The Douro Boys,</span></b> whose slogan is “flying the flag for the Douro, enabling dry wines.” “We have fun, but we’re
serious,” said Cristiano
van Zeller, when we chatted at
Decanter’s recent Fine Wine Encounter devoted to Iberian wines. They are Francisco Ferreira, of
<b><span style="color: #660000;">Quinta do Vallado</span></b>; Dirk van der Niepoort, of <span style="color: #660000;"><span style="color: #660000;"><b><span style="color: #990000;">Niepoort</span></b></span></span>; Francisco Olazabal,
of <b><span style="color: #660000;">Quinta do Vale Meão</span></b>; Tomas Roquette, of <b><span style="color: #660000;">Quinta do Crasto</span></b>; and Christiano,
who owns <b><span style="color: #660000;">Quinta Vale Dona Maria</span></b>.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> At a Masterclass during the
tasting, the flag flew well. Niepoort’s white from 2014, known as <b><span style="color: #660000;">Tiara</span></b>
(principal grape in a complex blend is Codega do Larinho—see what I mean?) was
pale gold and full-bodied, rounded but braced with quietly firm acidity. Quinta
Vale Dona Maria’s two from 2013, <b><span style="color: #660000;">Douoro Red</span></b> and <b><span style="color: #660000;">Vinha da Francisca</span></b> were both
vibrant, the former a little lighter (a blend of 25 grapes), the latter a touch
more tannic, and a blend of only four grapes, predominantly Touriga Nacional.
Quinta do Crasto’s <b><span style="color: #660000;">Vinha
da Ponte</span></b> 2012 was bold and loaded
with fruit but with muscular structure that will guarantee a long age, surely
at least 20 years at best. Quinta do Vale Meão’s <b><span style="color: #660000;">Douro Superior</span></b> 2013 went for almost classical
Bordeaux-style elegance for its multi-grape blend, another 20-year winner,
surely.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> There was
talk of terroir, interestingly complicated when you have so
many different grapes and also many sorts of soil and exposures to sunshine
along those terraces, even in small vineyards. In the end, though, as it’s about
flavour and enjoyment, they’re home free. Find them at <b><a href="http://www.douroboys.com/">www.douroboys.com</a>,</b> or on Facebook. </span></div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-11568600600541067352016-05-09T18:04:00.001+01:002016-05-09T18:11:49.033+01:00White-out?<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: large;">You could be forgiven for not having noticed, but the first
week of May was “World Wine Week.” The second week of this well-blessed month
has been declared “British Sandwich Week,” perhaps appropriate enough, as the
handy meal was invented—or at least named--in England. In between these two
sort-of events, May 6 was designated “International Sauvignon Blanc Day.” Busy
month for food and wine! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> What was most interesting about Sauvignon Blanc Day was that
the official Bordeaux Blanc group made a great deal of noise about it,
celebrating its principal grape with much fanfare, but didn’t once mention the
minor but crucial partner in the blend, Semillon. If ever there were a grape
worthy of being acclaimed as Best Supporting Actor, Semillon should win in a walk, but it
seems to be a victim of fashion. It was once a serious contender in Washington State,
but even Pinot Grigio has overtaken it there, and Chile has cut back its acreage.
Only Australia
honors it (and does it proud, as proven by a recent bottle of <span style="color: #990000;">Tyrell's</span> Hunter Valley 2005), which may be something to consider while we ponder our wine choices
for “Barbecue Week,” which is the last week of May. Shiraz, anyone?</span></div>
Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-45731353538034410502016-04-26T11:04:00.002+01:002016-04-26T15:16:50.591+01:00Shades of. . . Marie Antoinette<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--><span style="font-size: large;">In the newest erotic best-selling novel, “Maestra,” there’s
a scene featuring Bellinis, but they’re made with Champagne (<span style="color: #990000;">Veuve Cliquot,</span> in this case) instead of
Prosecco, as they were when invented at Harry’s
Bar in Venice,
and now in the rest of the world. Queried about the discrepancy, the author,
L.S. Hilton, quipped that in Portofino, where the scene was set, Bellinis are
made with Veuve Cliquot, and “nicer than at Harry’s Bar in Venice,” a cute, if
unnecessarily snotty, defense of conspicuous consumption: the spirit of Marie
Antoinette lives on, obviously, as does the right to ruin good Champagne.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"> That reminded me of the time I went to an event in Texas
during the Republican presidential campaign years ago, where they were serving
<span style="color: #990000;">Krug</span> and Guinness, though not calling them Black Russians, no doubt out of
political caution. When we pesky journalists questioned the blend (“Waste of
good Champagne!”
said one, while the Irishman in the crowd said, “Waste of Guinness!”),
a local big spender crowed that they were serving “nothing but the best.” In
that case, we replied, we’ll just have the Krug. (The Irishman had his Guinness on the side.)</span></div>
Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-34782220991739155622016-04-20T12:03:00.002+01:002016-04-21T06:50:07.976+01:00When in doubt, punt<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--><span style="font-size: large;">I’ve been accused of tomfoolery over my
warning of a signal of some wines being densely overblown blockbusters by identifying
their bottles as having “Parker punts,” that is, deeper-than-usual indentations
at the bottom of what are usually heavy bottles, regardless of the wines’
origins, grape varieties, or pedigree. I’ve been guilty of all sorts of
tomfoolery in the past, but I’m not kidding.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> For example, take <span style="color: #990000;">Sauska</span> Hungarian Merlot 2011; it’s
expensive (£75/$105 on this date), the bottle weighs 800 grams/1.8 pounds,
which would come to more than 5 pounds per case of added weight over the
average of most bottles, and the depth of the punt is almost to the second
knuckle of my index finger. Inside: A dense, over-extracted, brooding beast,
ungenerous, all tannin and muscularity, a relative of the grizzly bear that had
its way with Leonardo di Caprio in “The Revenant”—a wine that fulfilled the
promise of its package.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> Luckily, I also had a bottle of <span style="color: #990000;">Chateau de Gaudou “Renaissance” </span>2009, a
Malbec from Cahors, standing by; Sauska went into the stewpot, this one, in a
normal package and with a shallow-punted bottle a bit more than 200 grams
lighter, went into me. It was lovely, did its job: to be enjoyable.</span></div>
Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-33170740110951075612016-03-09T14:38:00.001+00:002016-03-09T17:12:14.381+00:00Bubbling up<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: large;">British sparkling wine is having its moment, and the moment
may last. In 2015, sales more than doubled, while the Wine Society saw
increases of only a little less than that; restaurant listings went up as well,
especially in places like Fera, in Claridge’s, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, and
many haute-cuisine hot spots in Mayfair. Tasting my way through a batch of
local bubbly recently, I was quite impressed by <span style="color: #660000;"><b>Ridgeview</b></span> (the first real breakaway wine, which won a top trophy at
Decanter’s World Wine Awards a few years back), <span style="color: #660000;"><b>Wiston Estate, Gusborne, Theale, Nyetimber,</b></span> and <span style="color: #660000;"><b>Furleigh Estate</b>,</span> which also makes the
wine from Steven and Bella Spurrier’s <span style="color: #660000;"><b>Bride</b><b> Valley</b></span>
vineyard. They’re all first-rate. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> Now they’re being joined by one of France’s most notable
producers: <span style="color: #660000;"><b>Taittinge</b>r</span> has purchased
just over 170 acres of land in Kent, which has chalky soil
similar to that of Champagne;
about 100 acres will be planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier.
The wine will be called <span style="color: #660000;"><b>Domaine
Evremond,</b></span> named for a French poet
who lived in England
and is buried, near Spenser and Chaucer, in Poets’ Corner at Westminster Abbey. It could be
an omen—40 years ago, after <span style="color: #660000;"><b>Domaine</b><b> Chandon</b></span> established a French beachhead for sparkling
wine in California,
there was a welcome invasion, as <span style="color: #660000;"><b>Mumm,
Roederer,</b></span> and yes, <span style="color: #660000;"><b>Taittinger</b>,</span>
arrived, and were soon joined by the Spanish <span style="color: #660000;"><b>Freixenet</b>,</span> which created <span style="color: #660000;"><b>Gloria</b><b> Ferrer</b>.</span>
A few other producers dipped their toes in the California pool, but didn’t linger, more
from marketing stumbles than anything else. Taittinger, which had a major success in California, looks like a safe bet.</span></div>
Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-85034995261297657312016-02-25T11:29:00.004+00:002016-02-25T14:50:08.246+00:00More organic (in every way)<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: large;">A day after I posted the item below on organic wine
production, a colleague in Brazil
sent me an e-mail saying, “Just back from a ‘natural’ wine tasting. Seriously
one of worst wine experiences of my professional life. Everything bio,
terrible. Only good thing was dark chocolate and foie gras <i>amuse-bouche.”</i> I hope those last two were separate, but I know what
she means. A few months ago a writers’ group I belong to did a similar tasting,
with wines mostly from Italy
and France.
It was more work than most wine tastings, and certainly more than it should
have been: Not one of the dozen tasted good, even when we tried them with food
(although a few at least tasted a little better then). </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> What was most irksome
was the way the proponents of these wines keep saying that their biodynamic
principles really and truly demonstrate their <i>terroir</i>, which simply traduces language, making it meaningless.
What they demonstrated, in fact, was that in making wines with primitive
methods, the flavours simply reflect the winemaking—they were similar to each
other, no matter where they came from, or sometimes whichever grape they were made from. “Terroir” is in danger of going the way
of “minerality” as a hollow phrase. (As wine-drinking may be in danger of becoming dutiful assessments of moral standing rather than sensual pleasure.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> But on the other hand, I went to lunch and
then, because it was so good, dinner, at a wine bar called <b>Antidote,</b> on Carnaby Street (it used to be La Trouvaille). The wine
list is organic, etc., and we drank—quite happily!—glasses of <span style="color: #660000;"><b>Domaine de Bellevue Muscadet 2014, Domaine
de Veilloux Cheverny 2011, and Domaine Ledogar Corbieres 2011</b>.</span> So, there is
still something to talk about. The INAO, the French appellation governing body,
is now preparing a report aimed at defining “natural” wine. It won’t please
everybody—perhaps nobody—but it’s a start.</span></div>
Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-62999417356832015122016-02-23T11:15:00.003+00:002016-02-25T11:41:49.511+00:00You say organic, I say. . . ?<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Some of the best wines I’ve ever drunk were organic, or at
least made from organic grapes. Some of the worst, often labelled as “natural”
or biodynamic, were too, really quite punishing to drink (“enjoy” didn’t come
into the conversation at all—drinking them seemed more like a duty, or maybe a
penance, than anything else)<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span>The good ones
were so good that I’ve always leaned toward the idea that, at least for
small-to-medium-sized producers, organic was probably the way to go, and I
wasn’t alone—around the world, the number of producers embracing the idea has
grown: in the last couple of decades, the acreage of Spain’s vineyards farmed
organically quintupled, France’s quadrupled, and Italy’s nearly doubled. That’s
what was officially reported; the actual number of people simply adopting some
or most of the organic methods was even higher. Now, however, according to an
extensive survey in Europe, the numbers are dropping slightly, especially in
France (there seem to be problems of administration of their Ecocert program,
and people willing to go against the grain by going organic are also the sort
of people also willing to go against the grain from bureaucracy). Italy,
however, seems to still be moving on; their organic program is more biodiverse,
and more directly participatory—it’s called “Biodistretto,” with more local
control, and farmers as well as vineyardists involved.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"> I can still,
decades later, vividly remember drinking a range of splendid wines from the <b>Dry</b><b> Creek
Valley and other parts of northern Sonoma,</b> where there was an early and enthusiastic move
to organic principles: Zinfandels from <b>Quivira,
Nalle, Seghesio, Preston, and Ridge</b>,
Barbera from several vineyards, and a whole range from early-adopter Dave Stare’s
<b>Dry Creek Vineyards</b>. All proof
enough that it can work, done sensibly.</span></span></div>
Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-30549286732864876312016-01-28T11:10:00.001+00:002016-01-28T11:19:43.675+00:00Uruguay weighs in<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">I recently bought a case of
wine at an auction for one of my favorite charities, <b><span style="color: #990000;">WaterAid,</span></b> which works to
bring fresh clean water to communities in Africa, digging wells, supplying
pumps, and creating plumbing systems, making a huge differences to people’s
lives. The wine was a “mystery case”—all I knew was that it was white wine,
donated by Decanter after a series of tastings. Half a dozen bottles were
Uruguayan Chardonnay. Oh well, I thought, the money went for a good cause
anyway. I’ve now drunk my way through most of them, and am pleased to report
that I got quite a bargain.</span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Back in the days before “terroir” and “minerality” became
the dominant, all-purpose, misappropriated and eventually diluted criteria they
are now, we used to judge wine in simpler, more accessible ways, beginning with
varietal character, moving on to acidity, and ending up with balance (which
brought in the actual winemaking)—not a bad way to go. On that useful basis,
several of those Uruguayan Chardonnays were terrific, clearly respecting the
grape’s flavours and aromas, with a vibrant zing of green-apple acidity running
through them that never let up, and a balance that never flagged, with just the
right touch of subtle oak, always inviting another mouthful: <span style="color: #990000;"><b>Bouza, Bodgeas
Carrau</b>,</span> and <b><span style="color: #990000;">Del Pedregal</span></b> from 2014, and <span style="color: #990000;"><b>Maricha</b>l</span> 2015, are highly recommended.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Uruguay
has a fascinating wine history, with an unusual climate and topography; it’s
the fourth-largest wine industry in South America,
and becoming export-minded. The principal grape is the red Tannat, a rough,
tannic beast in France
but softer and voluptuous in Uruguay
(it must be the terroir!). <span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">And i</span>f you see a dessert wine called <b><span style="color: #990000;">Vinedo de los
Vientos “Alcyone,”</span></b> do yourself a favor and try it—it’s <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tannat made with added herbs, in the style of some Amarones, and it’s a delicious chocolate-cherry bombshell with a firm
tannic backbone, unique and quite wonderful.</span></span></div>
Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-51714745338124980212016-01-22T12:07:00.000+00:002016-01-28T11:20:13.674+00:00Trapper, Moses, and me <span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><b><span style="color: #660000;"><span style="color: #990000;">Wayne Rogers</span>,</span></b> who played Trapper John McIntyre in the classic TV
series of “M.A.S.H.,” died last week. Besides acting, he had been<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a highly successful financial manager. One
venture, in the early 1970s, was a syndicate that included Peter Falk, Jack Webb, and James Caan,
which established a 530-acre vineyard in Paso Robles, then mostly known for its
hot springs.</span>
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Vineyards were a savvy, tax-deferring investment, but Wayne, who admitted at the time that his wine
knowledge was limited to knowing the difference between Pinot Noir and Cabernet
Sauvignon, got involved, even taking university courses in enology and viticulture.
His enthusiasm—and financial returns—helped bring in new investors and
revitalize the area’s historic wine traditions (and its annual rodeo became the
only one in America
featuring wine-tastings). </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>We were slightly acquainted, so I wasn’t surprised when he
called me one day in 1985 at my office at Wine Institute in San
Francisco, but I was surprised at the reason: He<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">'</span>d gotten a phone call
from <b><span style="color: #660000;"><span style="color: #990000;">Charlton
Heston</span>,</span></b> who was appearing on stage
in London in
“The Caine Mutiny,” and was in a Captain Queeg-type lather. On his night off,
Heston had had dinner with the American Ambassador--and been served French
wine! He was indignant! He was outraged! He said the ambassador had claimed
French wine was all they had in the embassy’s cellar. Not so, I told Wayne, I’d recently arranged <span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">a</span> <span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">donat<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">ion</span></span> of wine left over from a California tasting to the embassy. Perhaps the ambassador had been misled.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Wayne wasn’t mollified. “Do
you really want to argue with Moses?”
he said, laughing. Good point: I sent Heston a message promising that we were working to
sort out the situation, and then called Geoffrey Roberts in London, the leading
importer of California wine at the time, and asked him to send a mixed case to
Heston at his hotel, with a note saying I was sure he’d enjoy it when he hosted
the ambassador in return, and then to bill me for the wine. (A real gent, Roberts
only charged me the wholesale price.) </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> Later, Heston sent me back a message saying he
appreciated the quick response; I never knew if he was referring to my promise,
or the wine he evidently enjoyed. Moses
supposed, I disposed. That’s entertainment.</span></span></div>
Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-2289549345454178482015-07-01T13:56:00.000+01:002015-12-08T10:01:32.438+00:00Sign of the times, part 2<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">This is at one of several large booths behind the Royal Festival Hall in London, along the Thames. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">I don't know if they were serving Prosecco on tap--I suspect they were-- because the line was so long </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">(longer than the ones for cocktails or beer) that I couldn't get close enough to see!</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DnKRBkbq8k0/VZPjJOqqpoI/AAAAAAAAAHA/n2BnJ6-Fzu8/s1600/prosecco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DnKRBkbq8k0/VZPjJOqqpoI/AAAAAAAAAHA/n2BnJ6-Fzu8/s320/prosecco.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-59341416463832372462015-06-19T13:07:00.001+01:002015-12-08T10:10:16.391+00:00Pinot Noir moves the needle in California<span style="font-family: "times new roman";">
</span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">There’s something about Burgundy (and of
course I mean the red wine rather than the place </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">or its Chardonnay), something
that brings out a kind of poetic, often ribald, ambiguously </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">affectionate
response from people, something other kinds of wine will never get to. At a
Burgundy </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">tasting years ago, we were asked to raise our hands if that wine had
been our best experience; </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">most of us raised our hands. Then we were asked if it
had been our worst, and most of us raised </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">our hands again, chagrined but
smiling.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">
</span><span lang="EN-US"> In <st2:personname w:st="on"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Hilaire</st1:givenname> <st1:sn w:st="on">Belloc</st1:sn></st2:personname>’s
famous poem, he forgets the girl’s name, but the wine is Burgundy; </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Dumas said
it should be drunk kneeling, and with your head bared. Musketeers saluted as
they </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">marched past the vineyards. And, lately, in California, the similes have
been extended. Winemaker </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Paul Hobbs said making Pinot Noir was like coming home
to the indifference of a cat as opposed to </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">the welcome of a happy, tail-wagging
dog, while Karen McNeill said a tasting of it was like </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">waking up in a strange bed
at 3 a.m.—you don’t know whether you’re about to have </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">a good time or a bad one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">
</span><span lang="EN-US"> Karen
and the Wine Institute hosted a tasting/seminar of California Pinot Noir </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">at the
Culinary Institute of America in the Napa Valley recently, which was entitled </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">“The Needle Has Moved.” The point was well made, though the needle still isn’t
pointing toward </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Burgundy. <st1:givenname w:st="on">Karen</st1:givenname> and
her crew tasted 126 Pinots and chose what they thought were the best 18; </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">most of the wines cut were
heavier, or tannic or over-extracted, the survivors chosen for power, </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">elegance,
fruit and earthiness. Subjective, and certainly not definitive (I'd have included </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">the very elegant <span style="color: #990000;">McMurray Ranch</span> version and a solid, well-defined <span style="color: #990000;">Schug</span> "Carneros" we tried the day </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">before, and there are surely more worth trying), but most of the wines showed
through beautifully </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">in those aspects, velvet with silk trim: 6 were from the Sonoma Coast, 4 from Santa Lucia
Highlands, </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">2 from Santa Rita Hills, 2 from Arroyo Grande, and 1 each from
Carneros and Santa Maria Highlands. </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Terroir aside, the winemaking varied, some
barrel-fermented, some aged on their lees; all were aged </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="EN-US">in barrel; alcohol
levels ranged from 13 to 15.2 percent. </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">
</span></span></span><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I
ranked half on my top level: <span style="color: #990000;">Sanford Winery, Brewer-Clifton, <st1:givenname w:st="on">Paul</st1:givenname> <st1:sn w:st="on">Hobbs</st1:sn>, <st2:personname w:st="on"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Kosta</st1:givenname> <st1:sn w:st="on">Browne</st1:sn></st2:personname></span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #990000;">,
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-size: large;">Peay Vineyards, Laetitia, Talley, McIntyre</span></span><span style="font-size: large;">, and <span style="color: #990000;">Siduri</span> (the last three,
incidentally, had the lowest </span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: large;">retail price, less than $42 a bottle.) One that
got my attention, almost Burgundian, funky, edgy, </span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: large;">full—I wrote, “a flashback,
loud, feral”—turned out to be, unsurprisingly, <span style="color: #990000;">Au Bon Climat,</span> </span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: large;">from the original
Wild Boy, Jim Clendenen. It didn’t come tops for technical reasons, but it
would be </span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: large;">the first one I’d want with dinner.</span></span></span> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman";">
</span>Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-49230541446502173922015-06-18T17:02:00.006+01:002015-12-08T10:12:22.577+00:00California: Sign of the times?<span style="font-family: "times new roman";">
</span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Billboard spotted just north of the town of Napa,
alongside Highway 29: </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span lang="EN-US">“Make the Napa Valley your lifestyle!”</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN-US"> According
to latest statistics, less than half of the valley’s residents actually live there </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span lang="EN-US">full-time, so obviously it’s a dream come true.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman";">
</span>Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-52269667588289842442015-06-10T12:52:00.001+01:002015-12-08T10:13:44.171+00:00White is the new. . . news?<span style="font-family: "times new roman";">
</span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span lang="EN-US">During back-to-back trips to California and
Greece last month, a few easygoing white wines caught—and held—our attention.
In the midst of work and seriousness, they stood out for sheer pleasure,
perfect diverting intermissions. At <span style="color: #990000;">Seghesio Winery</span>, whose Zinfandels from
Sonoma have become increasingly robust and bolder, a light, bright, and
refreshingly dry <span style="color: #990000;">Pinot Grigio</span> was a revelation, as was an equally appealing
<span style="color: #990000;">Arneis</span>. What struck me was that neither has an exact correspondent in Italy:
The Pinot Grigio wasn’t in the dilute style of so many in the Veneto, nor in
the fuller style of Friuli; the Arneis was also lighter (and crisper) than
those found in the Piedmont’s Roero, but without sacrificing any flavor. The
next day, at the <span style="color: #990000;">MacMurray Ranch</span>, also in Sonoma, we stopped on a hillside
overlooking a bend in the Russian River, above the afternoon fog line, and had
a glass of their <span style="color: #990000;">Pinot Gris</span>, dry, lightly fruity, and with the sort of
limestone finish that I can only think of as—I hate to say it, as it’s become
so traduced—minerality (and, again, unlike European versions such as Alsatians). As I wrote at the beginning, none of these were
“serious,” but all were seriously pleasant. Maybe California’s on to something
in terms of style, something unashamedly independent. If these are examples of that, it’s
welcome.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN-US"> Greece?
<span style="color: #990000;">Moschofiler</span>o. A more elusive animal. Stay tuned, please.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman";">
</span>Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-32236202888409117442015-05-03T07:44:00.004+01:002015-12-08T10:14:40.700+00:00"Natural" or no?<span style="font-family: "times new roman";">
</span><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">In writing a book on the history of wine in America, I’ve
had to grapple with the national aberration known as Prohibition. One casualty
of the crusade by the Women’s Christian Temperance Union and other groups was
language: Their definition of “Christian,” for example, didn’t include
Catholics, and “temperance” meant abstinence rather than moderation. It still
does, in some dictionaries. Words matter.</span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"> The current
fuss in wine terminology revolves around “natural,” usually noted with an
asterisk, like disputed sports records: wine made from organic grapes, with
low-or-no sulphur, biodynamically. . . It actually encompasses a wide variety
of philosophies—and generalizations. “Emotional black magic,” says a
viticulturalist, “a hoax,” writes a Napa Valley winemaker, while a proponent of
naturalism ardently claims that oxidation isn’t a flaw, and skeptics are
demonized as being in favour of “mass-produced, manipulated” wines. You’d get a
more rational discussion talking about bankers. </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: large;">
</span><span style="font-size: large;"> Meanwhile, in
Alsace, the Loire, increasingly in Burgundy and lately Bordeaux, in Sicily,
Greece, Croatia, and Germany, good, honest dirt is celebrated; New Zealand’s
aiming at 20% organic soon, and Oregon may top that. Want a true taste of
terroir? Go to the Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma, where they’ve been messing<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>with biodynamics for over 20 years, and find
delicious consistency. While the True Believers and Snarky Skeptics were
playing dodgeball dogma, the train left the station.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: large;">
</span><span style="font-size: large;"> And in all
this, with two rival “natural” wine fairs competing concurrently in London, a
flurry of books, and Facebook navel-gazing, something’s been lost: The
audience--consumers, those folks who are supposedly our collaborators in the
adventure of wine. While we up in the choir loft are poring over our hymnals,
murmuring over subtleties of the sermons and the correctness of the liturgy,
the congregation down below are simply happy to be in church, and looking for
some comfort.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: large;">
</span><span style="font-size: large;"> My friend <st1:givenname w:st="on">Joan</st1:givenname>, in her mid-80s, lives in a cottage in Sussex.
She’s a good cook, and has a glass or two of wine with dinner every night. It
will be red, probably Sainsbury’s own-brand, about a fiver a bottle, which is
all she can afford, and the sort of thing the naturalists revile. Does she want
a wine she might like when she “gets used to it,”, or to read a wine label to
know how it was made? No. Is she a wine-lover? You bet she is.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: large;">
</span><span style="font-size: large;"> The
wine trade has o’er-leaped the saddle, and fallen on the other side of the
horse. We need to begin again, and ask what wine’s really for, and include the
audience in the conversation. And we should be working toward civility, along
with sanity.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman";">
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman";">
</span>Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-66892924882663458182015-03-08T11:02:00.001+00:002015-03-08T11:02:44.642+00:00Argentina 2, France 0<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN-US">After accumulating some Cahors from the
2011 vintage, I decided to do a small tasting; it didn’t take long, and my
kitchen drainpipes are cleaner than ever. All were rather heavy,
over-extracted, and unyielding, in an expression of a certain style of
winemaking rather than <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">terroir </i>or
what the grape (Malbec) can do. The most interesting thing to emerge was the
prominence given to the grape name rather than the region—either Cahors was
completely omitted from the front label, or in smaller type than Malbec, which
has, of course, been popularized by some lovely wines from
Argentina. (Another sign of its popularity is the way
clothing retailers now refer to a deep shade of purple in their fabrics as
“Malbec” instead of “Burgundy.”)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN-US"> Many
of the Cahors also came in heavy bottles with deep punts and minimalist
labels, imitating too many from North and South America trying to
bull their way into the winner’s circle on appearance alone. (I’m beginning to
be wary of the very deep indents in the bottoms of these ambitious bottles,
intended to announce seriousness, but really just telegraphing the punchiness
of their style—I think of them as “Parker punts.”)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-75396801497633838052015-02-02T11:46:00.000+00:002015-02-04T10:42:41.192+00:00Barolo 2010: Coming up roses<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN-US">The Collisioni festival, taking place all
over the town of Barolo, provided the opening round of tastings and
conversation about the 2010 vintage, which is coming on to the market now. It
was a year of only moderate drama, cool and somewhat wet during the summer, but
any anxiety eased with a sunny and warmer September, setting up a fine harvest.
(The coolness probably offset some of the effects of global warming, providing
the grapes with a better balance as they finished ripening.) The resulting
wines are forceful without being overbearing, and the best of them are quite
elegant (I want to say they're “without arrogance”—they’ll be quite gracious and approachable when
they mature, which will begin about 2020/2025).</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0.6in 3.2pt 0in;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>My
personal picks follow, based on those tasted in Barolo as well as several subsequent samplings in London, minus show-offy tasting notes (the wines will change so
much over the years that intimations of exact flavors would be even more
ridiculous than usual; also, please note that the rankings are somewhat tenuous
for the same reason. That said, all the wines that follow are recommended, with
considerable enthusiasm, surely to be joined by many more as other wines become
available in the next few months.)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0.6in 3.2pt 0in;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
top tier at the moment are <span style="color: #990000;">Vajra</span> “Bricco delle Viole;” <span style="color: #990000;">Chiarlo</span> “Cerequio;” <span style="color: #990000;"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Pio</st1:givenname> <st1:sn w:st="on">Cesare</st1:sn></span> “Ornato;”
<span style="color: #990000;">Luciano Sandrone</span> “<st1:givenname w:st="on">Cannubi</st1:givenname> <st1:sn w:st="on">Boschio</st1:sn>;” <span style="color: #990000;"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Marchesi</st1:givenname>
<st1:sn w:st="on">di Barolo</st1:sn></span> “Sarmassa;” and <st2:personname w:st="on"><span style="color: #990000;"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Cordero</st1:givenname> <st1:sn w:st="on">di Montezemolo</st1:sn></span></st2:personname>
“Monfalleto.” A half-step behind are <span style="color: #990000;">Damilano</span> “Cannubi;” <span style="color: #990000;"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Giuseppe</st1:givenname>
<st1:sn w:st="on">Rinaldi</st1:sn></span> “Brunate;” <span style="color: #990000;">Vietti</span> “Lazzarito;” <span style="color: #990000;">Paolo Scavino</span>
“<st2:personname w:st="on"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Bricco</st1:givenname> <st1:sn w:st="on">Ambrogio</st1:sn></st2:personname>,” and <span style="color: #990000;">Ratt</span>i “Rocche
dell’Annunziata.” Two others deserve mention: <span style="color: #990000;"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Pio</st1:givenname>
<st1:sn w:st="on">Cesare</st1:sn>’s</span> Barolo, a blend of five vineyards that will
be ready to drink in a few years, enjoyed with lunch one day, and <span style="color: #990000;">Fletcher,</span>
also a blend, made by <st2:personname w:st="on"><st1:givenname w:st="on">David</st1:givenname>
<st1:sn w:st="on">Fletcher</st1:sn></st2:personname>, an Australian who has
made wine in several places there and in California, and for a few years in the
Piedmont. His 2010 is available in small quantities in the US and UK, and is
just fabulous. Another great choice from the Nebbiolo grape, deliciously ready
right now, is the <span style="color: #990000;">Vajra</span> “Nebbiolo delle Langhe.”</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-19360075885889498332015-01-29T11:58:00.000+00:002015-02-02T16:23:24.358+00:00Rambling in the Piedmont: Vajra, Gaja, and the market for manure<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN-US">Back in the Piedmont for the second
Collisioni Festival, <st2:personname w:st="on"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Stephen</st1:givenname>
<st1:sn w:st="on">Spurrier</st1:sn></st2:personname> and I were whisked
straight from Turin airport to the <span style="color: #990000;">Vajra</span> winery, for a welcoming reception with
several of our colleagues and, in the best Italian tradition, several
grandchildren running around the tasting room, extremely cute and happy to be
indulged. We started with a new addition to the line, a dry, full-bodied, and
minerally Riesling—a lovely and moderately serious wine that made its own
esthetic statement, not resembling either Germanic nor Australian styles, but a
firm, straightforward expression of Riesling character—and things got even
better after that. (I don’t know of another winery that so consistently makes
an array of wines as well as Vajra, from the relatively rare Freisa and
somewhat unfashionable Dolcetto all the way up to splendid Barolo. One reason, surely: at harvest time, all the grapes are carefully sorted by hand before
crushing, with busy crews swarming over tables laden with grapes, carefully culling. The winemaking is undoubtedly as meticulous.)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN-US"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>As
a sidebar to the events, panel discussions, seminars, and visits to winemakers,
the organizers put together a fairly formal tasting of a range of Barolos from
the 2010 vintage, which were just being released. It wasn’t definitive, but
several subsequent tastings in London confirmed our first impression—2010 is a
splendid vintage. (Details updated above.)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN-US"> Over
lunch at <span style="color: #990000;">Trattoria Antica Torre</span> in Barbaresco, <st2:personname w:st="on"><span style="color: #990000;"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Angelo</st1:givenname> <st1:sn w:st="on">Gaja</st1:sn></span></st2:personname>
made several interesting points. Global warming was a benefit, “a big factor,”
resulting in more good vintages; higher alcohol levels could be a worry, but
the wines are more supple. And so-called “natural” wines aren’t a fad, he said;
many Piedmontese, including him, are working hard to make cleaner, less
manipulated wines—not labeling it as such, but simply getting on with getting
along with nature. He showed me a picture of worms in soil—that’s what he
wants, he said, dirt that’s alive, that can truly nurture grapevines. “I give
you some investment advice,” he said with a laugh. “Cow shit! If you can get
any, there’s a good market for it in the Piedmont!”</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-61734285112206075152014-11-19T11:37:00.002+00:002014-11-19T11:39:00.164+00:00Is wine the new rock 'n' roll (again)?<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN-US">Christmas catalogues are upon us again, and
in browsing through the ones for clothing, I notice that the color they used
to<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>call “Burgundy” is now known as
“Malbec”—no kidding. Congratulations, Argentina, you’re arrived. Sort of.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN-US"> Also
in the news, Decanter reports that hip-hop artist <span style="color: #990000;"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Jay</st1:givenname>
<st1:sn w:st="on">Z</st1:sn></span> has bought a substantial stake in <st2:personname w:st="on"><span style="color: #990000;"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Armand</st1:givenname> <st1:sn w:st="on">de
Brignac</st1:sn></span></st2:personname> Champagne (price per bottle: £210 in the UK
or $299 in the US, though of course that could change now). The performer has
referred to the wine in his music in the past. Other rappers are referencing
other Champagnes in their music, and are reportedly interested in also buying
in. Bling alert?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-7507097006173289152014-10-10T12:12:00.001+01:002014-10-10T12:18:44.582+01:00English wine: More good news <div abp="288">
<div abp="1101">
<span abp="289" style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span abp="290" lang="EN-US">Good news about English wine keeps coming
in, beginning with optimistic reports from several vineyards about the high
quality of the harvest. . .</span></div>
</div>
<div abp="291">
<div abp="1105">
<span abp="292" style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span abp="293" lang="EN-US"> This
summer I visited <st2:personname abp="294" w:st="on"><st1:givenname abp="295" w:st="on">Steven</st1:givenname>
<st1:sn abp="296" w:st="on">Spurrier</st1:sn></st2:personname> and his wife Bella in <st1:sn abp="297" w:st="on">Dorset</st1:sn>, coincidentally on the day <st1:givenname abp="298" w:st="on">Steven</st1:givenname>
was going over to <span abp="299" style="color: #990000;">Furleigh Estate</span> to taste the final blend of his and Bella’s
<span abp="300" style="color: #990000;">Bride Valley</span> sparkling wine, which had been resting there in bottle for more than a
year, while undergoing secondary fermentation. I was happy to go along. (Here they are afterward, contented.)</span></div>
<div abp="401" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a abp="402" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XYLnILwTeAw/VDe9kFeuOjI/AAAAAAAAADs/sAQ-iEjvL7I/s1600/Steven%26Bella.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img abp="403" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XYLnILwTeAw/VDe9kFeuOjI/AAAAAAAAADs/sAQ-iEjvL7I/s1600/Steven%26Bella.jpg" height="195" width="200" /></a></div>
<div abp="1118">
I’d never been to the
winery, which has a tasting room that would rival anything in the Napa Valley,
as well as lovely wines. I can say the same for <st1:givenname abp="301" w:st="on">Steven</st1:givenname>
and Bella’s—freshness and elegance were the words that came immediately to
mind. Afterward, we walked through the Bride Valley vineyard with Bella, quite
relaxed now in her role as <i abp="302" style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">vigneronne</i>
after a couple of good harvests in a row; the view of their village below, and
their house, was postcard-perfect. The wine will be released soon.</div>
<div abp="303">
<div abp="1122">
<span abp="304" style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span abp="305" lang="EN-US"> Another
notable sparkler is from <span abp="306" style="color: #990000;">Davenport,</span> a winery in East Sussex, which I
encountered on the wine list at Fera, in Claridge’s—bracing and delicious. It’s
also made from organically farmed grapes. Will Davenport took the organic
plunge just over 10 years ago, and it’s paid off. For example, his <span abp="307" style="color: #990000;">Horsmonden
Dry White</span> (named for the vineyard in <st1:givenname abp="308" w:st="on">Kent</st1:givenname>
where the grapes are grown) just won the well-established (28 years!) and
prestigious Soil Association Organic Award.</span></div>
</div>
<div abp="309">
<div abp="1129">
<span abp="310" style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span abp="311" lang="EN-US"> Finally,
<span abp="313" style="color: #990000;">London Cru</span>, a winery based in London that makes wine from grapes purchased in
various countries (but which isn’t allowed by the Food Standards Agency to say
which countries or even which grape varieties on their labels), has made their
first buy of English grapes, 3,000 kilograms of Bacchus from Sandhurst
Vineyards in <st1:givenname abp="315" w:st="on">Kent</st1:givenname>. “This is the year
to do it,” said winemaker <st2:personname abp="316" w:st="on"><st1:givenname abp="317" w:st="on">Gavin</st1:givenname>
<st1:sn abp="318" w:st="on">Monery</st1:sn></st2:personname>. As the grapes are local,
the wine should be allowed to be labeled with locality and variety.</span></div>
</div>
<div abp="319">
<div abp="1138">
<span abp="320" style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span></div>
</div>
</div>
Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-57413309896661482212014-09-23T17:43:00.002+01:002014-09-24T16:09:14.087+01:00Just sayin' . . .<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN"><em><span style="color: #333333;">“Aromas of peach, oatmeal, subtle notes of
charred peat, seasoned by complex lees derived characters, with flashes of
matchstick, zesty orange rind and ginger deftly laced with complex seasoned
oak. . . “ </span></em></span><span lang="EN" style="font-style: normal; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="color: #333333;"> </span></span><span style="color: #333333;">That’s an actual tasting note
for a wine, though it’s edited down from the original, which was even longer
(and sillier). Somehow, back in the 1980s, wine writers decided that
stripped-down descriptions of wines wouldn’t do any more, maybe because they
were looking to make their work more distinctive. So, what winemaker </span><st2:personname w:st="on"><st1:givenname w:st="on"><span style="color: #333333;">John</span></st1:givenname><span style="color: #333333;"> </span><st1:sn w:st="on"><span style="color: #333333;">Parducci</span></st1:sn></st2:personname><span style="color: #333333;">
once called “fruit-salad tasting notes” began appearing. They continue, despite much deserved derision, in some
places. Now, supermarket chain <span style="color: #990000;">Tesco</span> has announced they will start
using descriptions from consumers who have attended a special tasting of their new
range; I was thinking it could be a good idea until I got to the end of the
announcement, which noted that wine bloggers would also be included in the
trials. Oh well. . .</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-17202079978549624222014-09-14T16:37:00.002+01:002014-09-14T16:42:46.288+01:00English wine harvest 2014 looking good<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><br />
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0pt;">
<span style="color: #990000;">Furleigh
Estate,</span> in West Dorset, is expecting its best-ever harvest this autumn,
anticipated to be twice as large as the previous record yield, in 2010, as a
result of two consecutive years of great summer weather, which enabled vines to
thrive. <st2:personname w:st="on"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Rebecca</st1:givenname>
<st1:sn w:st="on">Hansford</st1:sn></st2:personname>, owner of Furleigh
Estate, said: “We are so excited about this year’s bumper harvest. A dry
Glastonbury Festival and a warm Wimbledon are usually reliable indicators that
the grape harvest is going to be good, so we’ve had high hopes. We are so
fortunate that the English climate has been kind to the vines this
season!”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I called around, and several
other English winemakers said the same thing, so this could be the break-out
year. (By the way, Furleigh Estate is where <span style="color: #990000;"><st2:personname w:st="on"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Steven</st1:givenname> <st1:sn w:st="on">Spurrier</st1:sn></st2:personname>’s</span>
new sparkling wine, Bride Valley, was made. I visited the estate this summer
and tasted the wine, which was quite impressive; more on that very soon.</div>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3275793266211085667.post-91301830263092780922013-09-26T11:31:00.001+01:002013-09-26T17:35:29.276+01:00Rambling in the Piedmont (part 1). . .<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN-US">I was invited to speak at a four-day
festival in Barolo, where Italy’s best wine is made, and of course jumped at the chance.
It was all slightly nutty, called <span style="color: #cc0000;">Collisioni</span> (collision) for good reason: Music
(Jamiroquai and some Italian rap groups), literature (Ian McEwan, David
Sedaris, V.S. Naipaul, and Michael Chabon—I’m still trying to imagine reading
“Telegraph Avenue” in Italian), and wine (a group of us from Decanter magazine,
doing talks and tastings). </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN-US"> I
was talking about Italian food and wine, trying to explain how Italian-American
cooking is a genuine, separate aspect, and making a comparison between, for
example, New York’s Little Italy Sicilian—red sauce, etc.—and San Francisco’s
North Beach, based more on pesto sauce and with maybe a little more refinement
(that was the subject of my first e-book this year, <span style="color: #cc0000;">“The Flavor of North Beach
Revisited”).</span> Since Liguria is a neighbor, right down the road south from where
we were and reeking of basil, the audience seemed receptive to the shout-out. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span lang="EN-US"> I was mainly there to promote my newest e-book, <span style="color: #cc0000;">“The Wine Lover Cooks
Italian,”</span> and I solved the problem of its having no hard, physical existence by
waving around a copy of the original book and exclaiming “revisita!” Don’t know
if they got it, but when I finished, I was given a wheel of local cheese, known
as Toma, which is very good. I’ve certainly had worse wages. (It was a gift
from the local cheese-makers’ association—someone there had read the book, and
they were very pleased that I’d included three Piedmont versions in the cheese
chapter.) </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Wine?
Wonderful everywhere we went (and we got around), and some of the best was made by female winemakers.
I especially liked the <span style="color: #cc0000;">Dolcetto</span> from <span style="color: #cc0000;">Pira & Figli,</span> which <st2:personname w:st="on"><st1:givenname w:st="on">Chiara</st1:givenname> <st1:sn w:st="on">Boschis</st1:sn></st2:personname>
labels “no oak, no Berlusconi.” Delicious, and good advice. And a nice
discovery, a lovely dry white from a heritage grape called <span style="color: #cc0000;">Naschetta</span>, being
revived by several young winemakers. I tried <span style="color: #cc0000;">Rivetto’s--</span>one of those wines that’s serious but also makes you smile. Quite auspicious.</span> <span style="font-size: small;">For information on the festival, have a look at</span> <a href="http://www.collisioni.it/"><span style="font-size: small;">www.collisioni.it</span></a><span style="font-size: small;">.</span> </span><span style="font-size: small;">More wine notes to come soon.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>Brian St. Pierrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07562753301503574639noreply@blogger.com0