Just add Burgundy. . .

Brunch isn’t an idea that ever caught on in England, but if anything could change that, it would be the new good idea from Sam and Eddie Hart, who run some of London’s best restaurants. They’ve combined it with Burgundy—always a good idea—to be convened the first Saturday of the month at Quo Vadis restaurant in Soho, hosted by Tom Harrow, an affable, knowledgeable consultant known as WineChap.
       The menu consists of “London cure” smoked salmon (delicate, tasting more of salmon than smoke) with four white Burgundies, followed by Egg Bledisloe (potato rosti topped with layers of
wilted spinach, crisp pancetta, and crumbled blue cheese, crowned by a perfectly poached egg, named after an enlightened politician with, clearly, impeccable gourmet inclinations) with the reds. Both dishes nicely matched the wines: An extremely pleasant occasion.
       The wines ascended from a Bourgogne, a village wine, premier cru, and grand cru. In this case, both white and red Bourgognes were lovely surprises: Collouray et Terrier 2007 “Tradition” and Meo-Camuzet 2007 punched way above the weight of their simple appellations, especially the latter, lovely, deep, and complex. The other whites ran right up a grand scale: Bret Brothers St. Veran 2006, Michel Bouzereau Mersault-Genvrieres 2005, and Sylvain Loichet Corton-Charlemagne 2006.
       After the Meo-Camuzet set a high standard, the charming Domaine Comtes Lafon Monthelie-les-Duresses 2006 more than held its own, as did Armand Rousseau’s regal Charmes Chambertin 2004; the herbal, slightly funky Clos de la Marechale “Mugnier” Nuits-st-Georges 2004 was the only wine out of step in this precise dance. At £49 all in (there’s also a cheese plate), this is extraordinary value.
       Big Burgundy Brunch, Quo Vadis, 26-29 Dean Street, London W1D 3LL. Tel: +44 (0)20 7437 9585, http://www.quovadissoho.co.uk/.  Future dates: May 8th, June 5th, July 10th, August 7th, September 11th. Tom Harrow can be found at http://www.winechap.com/.