Wines of the week: At Franco’s restaurant in Mayfair, a tasting of Ros├ęs from 12 countries, great fun and some nice surprises: Rallo “Normanno” Nerello Mascalese 2008 (Sicily), from the slopes of Mount Etna, quite dry, well-structured, medium-bodied, fairly serious; intriguing. I had it again later with garganelli and n’duja (hot and spicy sausage) and smoked ricotta, and it more than held its own. Also, a charming, refreshing sipper, Agricola Vinosia "Rosmunda" 2008 (Catania, made by Mario Ercolino), from the Aglianico grape, a surprisingly light wine, with a zip of acidity and lovely fruit—think strawberry fields forever.

Just add Burgundy. . .

Brunch isn’t an idea that ever caught on in England, but if anything could change that, it would be the new good idea from Sam and Eddie Hart, who run some of London’s best restaurants. They’ve combined it with Burgundy—always a good idea—to be convened the first Saturday of the month at Quo Vadis restaurant in Soho, hosted by Tom Harrow, an affable, knowledgeable consultant known as WineChap.
       The menu consists of “London cure” smoked salmon (delicate, tasting more of salmon than smoke) with four white Burgundies, followed by Egg Bledisloe (potato rosti topped with layers of
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